Remember at Phase II, when I cautioned to leave off one of your end caps? With all power off, remove the receptacle and any wire nuts (wire caps), twist the wires together tightly and then twist on a new wire nut. When wire nuts are used it is important to twist the ends together tightly before capping the exposed copper with the wire nut. A blown fuse will usually look burnt inside the little window on top of the fuse or the wire inside will look broken, not connected from one side of the fuse to the other. Unscrew the top and bottom outlet mounting screws from the wall box. This loose wire needs to be reconnected to the hot outlet in order to send power to your dead one. ✦ Connections at the wire nuts (if there are any) located inside the box, behind the receptacle. If a wire is hanging loose, wrap the stripped end around the appropriate terminal screw.
Now you know that the connector plate is properly aligned to “catch” a screw. It was now late in the afternoon with most of the earlier part taken up with the trip to Radio Shack. Press the “TEST” button to trip the GFI receptacle off. GFI’s have a “TEST” and “RESET” button on the receptacle. ➳ Find and reset all the GFI receptacles in your house if any. If you price it, you’ll find as I did that — particularly for a bay window like mine — there are no other solutions under $500. Find it and grab the same elbow wrench that you’ve been using to make all the rail connections. ➳ (If you have Fuses) Unscrew the bad fuse and replace it with the same amperage (amp) size; either 15 or 20 amp and the same style; either the wide Edison base plug fuse or the skinny base Type-S fuse. Unscrew the bad fuse and replace it with the same amperage (amp) size; either 15 or 20 amp and the same style; either the wide Edison base plug fuse or the skinny base Type-S fuse shown in the drawing below. The idea is to plug a lamp into the switched half and a clock or TV into the half that remains on.
I used some 1″ flat-head wood screws that I have on hand and it worked fine with my 1″ red plastic plug. Step 3: Screw in the plate with your flat-head screws. 2: Use a small mirror to check the position of your screws vis a vis the slot in the bracket. Check to see if your outlet is working now. If it trips again, with nothing plugged in, you may have a defective ceiling light that is on the same breaker with your dead outlet. One day if I decide to change curtain styles, I may be thankful that I don’t have to un-install the rails in order to add more wheeled hangers. That’s so you can insert these babies inside your rails. The last little bit of advice I can give you is to please, never use Red Locktite (permanent) on your toe stop threads. First, make sure you have at least 4 threads of the toe stop screwed into the plate.
The elbow wrench turns the screw, which needs to be screwed into one of the five screws on the connector plate. The curved pieces are tricky, as the connector plate can only be shoved so far until it hits the curve, so only about two screws are available to align with the bracket. Step 4: Slide the bracket over the plate and tighten the small screw that holds the bracket to the plate. Over the years, I have heard the woes of skaters over and over again when it comes to toe stops coming off, often at the worst imaginable time. It’s time to grab a helper, as you’re going to need someone to hold the rails while you make the connections. You’re going to need both hands free. Plus, compared to swaps, they are free. Repeat Steps 3 and 4 until all brackets are on the wall. Those steps have helped many of my fellow skaters, but sometimes that isn’t enough.
I did not want to have to unscrew the bottom panel in the cabinet the next time I would have to change the CO Detector – which is done every five years. I inserted a few extra wheeled hangers into the rails for each panel. Plastic hooks come packaged with every IKEA curtain panel purchase, but the little plastic wheeled hangers that they hang from do not. The 130 motors that come with the RS aren’t too shabby. But they are easy to overlook in IKEA market, because they come packaged with plastic hooks, which you may not think you need if you intend to use one of the other styles or if you think the plastic hooks that come with your IKEA curtain panels have got you covered. No. You need them. Tighten them using the elbow wrench. 1: Stick the wrench standing upright inside a connector plate screw.